The fried delicata squash at La Brasa. (Photo: Marc Levy)

$10 When french fry fatigue and onion ring ennui sets in, find relief at La Brasa, which focuses on wood-fired farm-to-table foods – in this case, fried delicata squash in thinly sliced rounds served with a lime crema dipping sauce. The squash fills the snacking category well, but so richly that too much too fast might make for a little queasiness. Yes, it’s squash; onions rings are onion, and those can be dangerous too. That this comes in a china bowl rather than a basket signals it’s more like a legit meal side than the average serving of fries, and best treated that way. These squash slivers are also superior in their tartness, soaked in through a preparation that includes buttermilk and citric acid with the egg and flour, owner-chef Daniel Bojorquez told us. The tartness is heightened by a crema that’s, as Bojorquez says, like a more sophisticated ranch dressing.

La Brasa, 124 Broadway, East Somerville

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This post was backdated to before the closing of La Brasa.

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