$9 While it’s the idea of wings that’s most exciting about this restaurant in the former Cantina Mexicana space, these dumplings have a lot going for them, starting with the fact that there are 18 in an order, a filling amount even for two. K-Bok co-owner Yajaira Casserly and general manager Michael Robles stuff them with cabbage, garlic, onion, leek and sweet potato glass noodles to add to the meat-themed shop’s vegetarian options. They’re also two kinds of treat: The sizzling crunch of the wrapper served hot from a designated no-meat fryolator; and a savory melding of flavors as the mandu cool and the earthiness of the sweet potato becomes more prominent. The dish comes with an unnecessary soy dipping sauce. If you must use it, do so sparingly so that the sauce doesn’t overwhelm the dumplings’ growing subtlety.
K-Bok Korean Fried Chicken, 249 Washington St., Union Square, Somerville
