$5.49 Of course the cultish Korean grocery store has plused the impulse buys before you get to the checkouts. Shoppers at the Davis Square location queue up next to a rack of candies and chocolates beyond the basic Sour Patch Kids and Payday bars, but also face shelves of baked goods sweet and savory: milk rolls, cheese bread and custard buns, spinach feta danishes and red bean doughnuts. Among them is the sweet frank roll, more or less a split-end hot dog in soboro bread – minus the streusel or peanuts that make it an outright dessert – with some mozzarella. Sweet and cool this is, and somehow not improved by heating. Maybe 45 seconds in a microwave was too much: It seemed to distress the bun without melting the cheese or making the hot dog into anything but a hot dog. I expect magic at this mart, but it must sit somewhere else on the rack.
H Mart, 240 Elm St., Davis Square, Somerville, with a version at Paris Baguette inside H Mart, 581 Massachusetts Ave., Central Square, Cambridge
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