$4.50 Claims to perfection are nothing new for Davis Square – Redbones for years sold the One Perfect Rib. Quality started to slide long ago, and that promise of perfection is no longer on the menu of the barbecue joint, which changed owners last year. Its just as bold for Mortadella Head, a little pizza and sub shop with big servings, to offer slices called The Perfect Cheese, especially as it’s by Boston Burger Co. founders Charles Sillari and Sebastian Fricia. Boston Burger, home of mushy monstrosities, smartly does not promise perfection, but Mortadella Head’s claim won’t draw complaints or lawsuits for false advertising: This is a superbly balanced mix of red sauce under mozzarella, pecorino and some trifling scraps of basil, and over a terrifically chewy-but-charred Roman-style crust (which Sillari and Fricia went to Rome to learn). In the past, Mortadella Head has heated pizza indifferently before serving. This time even the bake was perfect.
Mortadella Head, 20 College Ave., Davis Square, Somerville
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