$8 It is not, shall we say, the most fun thing on a very fun menu of dim sum. Any cucumber would struggle to compete with a Filet O Fish Bao and a Bang Bang Gai of double-fried chicken; and all the food is out-funned by a multipage, creative cocktail menu. But you may be shocked by how much you enjoy this cheapest-listed item (aside from a $3 side of jasmine rice). It’s just rough-cut cucumber and yuba, a dried tofu skin that is marinated back to an intriguingly cheeselike consistency. But they’re doused thoroughly in chili oil, which gathers dangerously at the bowl’s base, and sesame seeds. This is a big serving of a light, bright dish; a salad among late-night indulgences of fried food and booze; and a red heat that makes a green memorable. The name of the dish is printed as a question: “Cucumber?” The answer is yes.
Darling, 464 Massachusetts Ave., Central Square, Cambridge
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