$9.50 The sweets at this Joanne Chang chain come in such variety and abundance that it’s hard to keep an eye on the savory side of the menu. Order quiche when a pop tart or chocolate pain Suisse is right there? Bacon makes a good argument for looking away from the pastry, though, and quiche is Flour’s only choice that promotes pig by name. (It’s called a bacon quiche online; in-store, onion and goat cheese share equal billing.) The feeling of virtuousness is enhanced by an accompanying simple, dressed side salad, though the creaminess of a quiche always feels decadent – and this one more so than many: The egg is so larded with milk and cheese that this cuts and chews with an almost heartbreaking ease. The onion and bacon are melded into the whole and indistinct as flavors, somehow a great thing, while the crust has a pleasingly distinct char.
Flour has 12 locations including at 114 Mount Auburn St., Harvard Square, Cambridge; 190 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridgeport; and 40 Erie St., Cambridgeport.
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