$6.20 It’s only the top of this hybrid pastry that’s caramelized with vanilla syrup and pearled sugar, but the whole of a broissant is impossible to touch without getting sticky fingers. Maybe that’s because, as a mix of Bakey’s signature sweet babka and savory croissant, the thing is half dessert throughout. It’s strangely easy to forget that, though: With its kick of yeast and brioche texture, this block of dough is much more like challah than it is babka or a croissant, which is best with flaky layers of crust that invite eating by unrolling. The other defiance by the broissant is its mildness, despite the sugar-rush expectations set up by the stickiness and that laminated top. All together it’s very good, but the “broissant” is a terrible name, and misleading. Bakey has something new; rename it and let it stand on its own.
Bakey, 238 Main St., Kendall Square, Cambridge
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