$6.95 Ernesto’s in Boston’s North End was my college favorite, partially because every inexpensive slice is really two slices, and big ones – a quarter of a pizza. A friend named Ted got angry on his introductory visit when realizing his “two slices” were half a pizza. The location at Assembly Row, opened in 2015, is careful to warn customers that they’re at risk of getting a great deal, because Ernesto’s is as I remember it: giant, wholly enjoyable slices, served sizzling with a chewy, foldable New York-style crust and a delightful grease level that has many customers dabbing. The Buffalo was not the point of the slice for me, but the choice was instructive. The sharp taste of the sauce suffuses very bite pleasantly, but only a few cubes of chicken speckle the face of the pie. To be fair, that’s a lot of surface area for chicken cubes to cover.
Ernesto’s Old World Pizzeria, 641 Assembly Row, Assembly Square, Somerville
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