$3 Two years ago, a friend hosted a baked potato party. The guests brought toppings, potluck-style, and we loaded up the potatoes she delivered tray after tray, hot from the oven. It was glorious. She and I share an admiration for the oft-humbled baked potato, and it seems H Mart does, too. (Bite was just at H Mart in April, and it must be said that Reliable Market, 45 Union Square, Somerville, has been selling awesome Asian goods since 1980 largely unsung. Still, not many stores sell baked potatoes.) The skin of H Mart’s baked sweet potato is crispy and slightly charred; the inside tastes of caramel and umami, and is so soft it’s nearly mashed. By the last bites the sweetness begins to cloy, but this is a delicious snack – if an unusual one for summer. Winter will come again for us all, though, and this will be pure comfort in a root vegetable.
H Mart, 240 Elm St., Davis Square, Somerville, with a version at Paris Baguette inside H Mart, 581 Massachusetts Ave., Central Square, Cambridge
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