$6 I really thought I was on to something when I spotted steak fries at this Fresh Pond comfort food institution. The big potato strips are way out of fashion and hard to find; The New York Times published a derisive piece about them last year, saying “So totally have they lost the war for the American palate that every encounter with a steak fry is like meeting a Visigoth.” I like the steak fry, and dove in to a substantial, golden-crisped batch, frustrated initially by the searing heat in a package meant to cool during takeaway or delivery. Sadly, these also don’t have enough potato integrity to stand on their own, nor enough salt to distract. Best stick with this restaurant’s all but legendary honey mustard chicken tenders. I also want to understand its name, stylized at least three ways (Ma Magoo’s? Or Mamagoo’s, as on Facebook? Or Ma-Magoo’s, like on its awning?) since opening in 1968, while honored as a Cambridge legacy business this year as established in 1986.
Ma Magoo’s Pizza & Sub Shop, 6 Concord Lane, Cambridge Highlands
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