$9 Roxy’s delivered a solid grilled cheese: crispy, toasty, tasty bread filled with chewy, oozy cheese. And why wouldn’t it? Grilled cheese has been James DiSabatino’s bread and butter since he launched Roxy’s as a food truck in 2011. That truck menu delves into hot honey, chicken pesto and short rib; the restaurant goes further – fried chicken, burgers – but a classic is a classic. The mix of Vermont cheddar, brick cheese and Monterey jack was excellent, a bit too fatty by itself but well complemented by the sweetness and acidity of ketchup (a condiment I adored as a child, derided for many years and recently returned to). At the end of the day, it’s still just a grilled cheese, and $9 feels a bit steep. Don’t forget that this location has a secret door to the A4cade, a mostly 21-plus pinball and game speakeasy that’s accessed through Roxy’s freezer door.
Roxy’s Grilled Cheese, 292 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridgeport, Cambridge
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